FOOD + DRINK 46 APRI L 2 0 1 7 but the basics, and turned it all on its head. He met Brown through their mutual involvement in cancer charity events in the neighborhood, and Brown was eager to get him in one of his restaurants’ kitchens ever since. In Brown’s words, “You give Shawn a bag of garbage, and he’ll make it taste amazing.” Hewitt has spent time working with both David Burke and Bobby Flay, and he’s put that experience to good use here. It’s his appetizers that he’s proudest of. First up was an assortment of his favorite starter plates, all made in house. The kale salad was delicious, with a housemade balsamic dressing that gave the hardy kale leaves a delightful playfulness I wasn’t expecting. Along with the greens were craisins and goat cheese, whose sweetness and tartness balanced excellently. The pulled pork and jack cheese dumplings were next, and while the pulled pork was the right amount of tender, the dough itself was a bit tough.
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