40 JUNE 2 0 1 7 ing Bareburger to intercontinental heights from its humble Astoria beginnings, Pelekanos is going back to his roots and starting fresh with Salt & Bone. His approach here is laser-focused, first and foremost. The menu is one page, consisting of seven meats and seven sides. Everything is oak-smoked and rotisserie, and centered on doing one thing and one thing well: In the time since, I’ve tried a number of styles of barbecues from across our great nation and beyond. But, being a New Yorker, the vast majority of the barbecue I’ve had in my life has been within the five boroughs, and usually right here in Astoria. It tends to be one discipline or another — Kansas City, the Carolinas, Korea — but by and large, it’s been eaten here. New York has a surprisingly active barbecue scene influenced by a myriad of cultures, immigrants, tourists and connoisseurs. Which begets a new question, however blasphemous some may find it: at what point will we see the rise of New Yorkstyle barbecue? Euripides “EP” Pelekanos may not be trying to start the New York barbecue style, but he’s certainly adding nutrients to its primordial soup. Nearly a decade after launch- FOOD + DRINK
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