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dining out
Photo courtesy of Fresco’s Cantina
Fresco’s Cantina brings
unique tacos to Astoria
BY ESTELLE PYPER
Strolling down 31st Avenue in western
Astoria, you’d be pleasantly surprised
to come across a charming Mexican
restaurant at the end of the block. But
Fresco’s Cantina is hard to miss.
The Spanish music swelling from the
interior can be heard from the next
block over, coaxing you closer. And
once you’re in front, there’s no turning
back, for the warm staff and the smell
of fresh tacos will make you want to
stay forever.
This is owner and creator Brian
Martinez’s goal. He wants every customer
to feel like they’re entering a
friend’s casa for dinner. Every detail,
from the dresser that sits next to the
host stand and the mirrors on the
walls, to the friendliness of the waitstaff,
work toward this concept.
Located on 12-14 31st Ave., Fresco’s
Cantina has only been open for a few
months, but it already boasts long lines
during happy hour (Monday through
Friday, 3 to 8 p.m.), despite its residential
location. The joint welcomes a
steady low of neighborhood regulars
who are delighted to have a watering
hole in their backyard — especially one
open seven days a week.
The interior is warm and brightly colored,
with recognizable home elements
scattered throughout like in an “I Spy”
book — all designed by Martinez
himself. There is a garage door that
remains lifted overhead to create an
open-air feel. The atmosphere is fun,
but not tacky, which Martinez was sure
to avoid.
“That’s why you don’t have skulls all
over the place,” he explained. “You don’t
have the lowers or whatever. It’s like a
nice, cozy home, like a hacienda, almost
like my house — you’re here in my house.
You’re having dinner in my home.”
The name itself harkens back to
Martinez’s personal life. He was known
as “El Fresco” by most everyone at his
alma mater, Le Moyne College — a
name given by his fraternity brothers
for his ability to dish out a witty comeback
for anything.
Even though he doesn’t cook himself,
Martinez crafted the menu, inluenced
by his Latin-American background.
His mother came to the U.S. from the
Dominican Republic two months pregnant
with Martinez, and he spent every
summer there as a kid. He labels the
fare “Mexican reinvented”: a fusion of
traditional Mexican mixed with Asian,
Indian and other Latin American inluences.
His favorite is the Cozumel taco:
beer-battered mahi mahi in a soft
taco with honey jalapeño coleslaw. It
was the perfect combination of spicy
and sweet, complete with the crispy
inish of the ish.
The Cubana al pastor taco was
packed with tender pulled pork,
topped with a sweet, fresh pineapple
marmalade.
But my personal favorite was the
pastelon, made with cooked sweet
plantain. It was sweet, but not too
sweet, and unlike anything I’ve tried
in my life.
These tacos have a combination
of lavors I would never think to
put together, but the taste combos
somehow work in a magical way. I
wolfed down the plate in about two
minutes and didn’t feel one ounce
of regret. Martinez certainly is right
when he says they’re “different.” The
unique fare is 100 percent worth
your time.
There is also a full bar, but they specialize
in killer margaritas, made with
fresh ingredients and lavors, with no
artiicial syrups or additives.
“INGENIOUS
BUBBLE WIZARDRY.”
-THE NEW YORKER
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