Eats
Feting ‘forbidden’ mushroom in NoMad
BY GABE HERMAN
With all the competition in
the New York restaurant
business, the NoMad Italian
eatery Cardoncello diVino is trying
to stand out by being the only restaurant
to offer the Cardoncello mushroom,
which has unique features and a
storied history.
The restaurant, at 43 W. 27th St.,
between Broadway and Sixth Ave.,
opened last July. Several menu items
include the Cardoncello mushroom,
which grows in southern Italy and has
a rich fl avor and thick, meaty texture.
The restaurant notes on its menu the
mushroom’s long history. Ancient Roman
poet Horace was apparently smitten
with the ’shroom after tasting it,
declaring, “This mushroom is so fl eshy,
so compact, so fl avorful! It must certainly
be the gods’ food!”
The fungal food would later be
banned by the Vatican in the belief that
consuming it would lead to sins of the
fl esh and distract from atonement.
Cardoncelli, a starter with roasted Cardoncello mushrooms, potato,
caciocavallo cheese and truffle tortino.
But the Cardoncello is still going
strong, and apparently is rather hard
to come by in America. The restaurant
imports it from southern Italy to be featured
on its menu.
PHOTO BY GABE HERMAN
But there are plenty of other options
for those who aren’t mushroom lovers.
Starters include a sardine dish, tuna
tartare, and chickpeas polenta with
goat cheese and sautéed shrimps. Prices
range from $15 to $18.
All breads are made in house, as are
pasta dishes, which include fettuccine
with Cardoncello mushrooms, linguine
with clams, and crab-fi lled tortelli.
Main dishes, running from $26 to
$35, include seared halibut fi let, goldseared
sea scallops, veal tenderloin,
and slow-braised Wagyu beef cheek
with Cardoncello mushrooms.
There is also a dessert menu that includes
several cheeses, drinks and dishes
like a coffee crème brulee, and panzerotti,
which are small pastries fi lled
with Nutella, honey and almonds.
The restaurant is in a small space
on a block in NoMad (a.k.a. “Madison
Square North”) that still feels industrial
over all. Inside, the space is nicely
decorated and creates a pleasant atmosphere,
including friendly staff and artwork
related to the Cardoncello mushroom
theme. More information can be
found at cardoncellodivino.com.
THE HISTORIC
MESERITZ
SYNAGOGUE
invites you to the upcoming
High Holiday season
Services will be led by
renowned Lower East Side
cantor Mandel Kaplan, Rabbi
Kalman Nochlin, and Yaakov
Faitelewicz.
Please help us plan
appropriately by contacting
us before September 27th.
Donations are welcome.
Rosh Hashona is celebrated on
the evening of September 29th.
Services on September 30th &
Oct.1st start at 8:30am
Yom Kippur (Kol Nidre) services
begin on the evening of
Oct. 8th at 6:15pm
Yom Kippur services on
Oct. 9th start at 8:30am
Afternoon services 4:45pm
Neilah at 6:15pm
Wishing you a Happy and
Healthy New Year.
415 E. 6th Street
212-505-5264
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Synagogue
14 September 12, 2019 TVG Schneps Media
link
/cardoncellodivino.com
link