11
APRIL 14, 2019, BROOKLYN WEEKLY
When the multi-talented Vic
Rallo opened the restaurant Surf,
he brought fabulous food to Staten
Island.
It was so well-received, he now
has his second venture there —
with partner Chef Dave Pasternack
— and keeping with the theme of
nautical names, it’s called Barca,
the Italian word for “boat.”
Pasternak is a self-proclaimed
fisherman who says every time he
looks at the spectacular waterfront
views of his restaurant, he thinks:
“What can I catch?” He owns his
own boat, and has spent a lifetime
selecting the finest seafood from fish
markets for his other eatery, Esca,
in Manhattan; so with a background
like this, it’s not surprising that seafood
at Barca is sensational.
We enjoyed first-of-the-season,
soft-shell crabs, beautifully presented
atop a bed of greens, dressed
with slices of grapefruit and orange,
and drizzled with a mint-pistachio
pesto.
A starter of oysters and raw
clams was super tender, fresh, and
silky smooth, displayed on a silver
platter of crushed ice, with two dipping
sauces.
At Barca, crudo — thin, raw
pieces of seafood, seasoned with oil
and juices — is offered nightly. Our
sampling included flavorful fluke,
red snapper, black grouper, swordfish,
yellowfin tuna, and clams,
each slender piece inside its own
section of a dish, bathing in an individual
broth.
Rallo says he tastes at least 1,000
wines a year, has traveled through
every region of Italy, and regularly
shares toasts with some of the best
winemakers in the industry, so
when he makes a recommendation,
one pays attention. The bottle of
Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco he
suggested was outstanding — crisp
and light — the perfect partner to a
seafood feast.
There happens to be an entire
wall of wine at Barca, located behind
see-through glass. A focal
point of the room, it’s actually a
wine cellar that keeps vintages at
perfect temperatures. At the same
time, it lends to the décor, and shows
off the possible indulgences of a meticulously
curated wine collection,
with more than 120 European selections
— and an emphasis on Italy.
Our lavish meal continued with
rock shrimp and slices of asparagus,
atop beautiful homemade fettucine.
It was drizzled with a mild
sauce of olive oil, butter, and lemon;
then speckled with poppy seeds.
The branzino was roasted to
perfection — juicy and tender. The
Fritto Misto Amalfitano offered a
crispy mix of assorted seafood, including
shrimp and calamari. The
side dishes — contorni — featured
sautéed fennel, broccoli rabe, and
not-to-be-missed crunchy potatoes.
Dessert was a double chocolate
torte comprised of espresso mousse
and Galliano crème anglaise. It was
adorned with — something different
— a candied slice of prosciutto.
The restaurant’s nautical feel
continues with its light wood décor
and white linen napkins with blue
stripes. The airy space is decorated
with strategically placed plant life.
A huge Berkel slicing machine is
in one corner of the room, where
a worker was lovingly slicing prosciutto.
Row your boat, if you have to,
but get there.
Barca 44 Navy Pier Court on
Staten Island, (718) 556–9300, www.
barcany.com. Open Tuesdays –
Thursdays, 5–10 pm; Fridays and
Saturdays, 5–11 pm; and Sundays,
4–9 pm.
BUS INES S , B ROOKLYN S T Y LE
Row your boat to Barca for its sensational, fresh seafood
Happy Eaer
OPEN Tues- Thurs 4:30-10pm Friday 4:30-11pm Saturday 10am-11pm Sunday 10am-10pm
OUTDOOR DINING
We are now accepting reservations for
Palm Sunday, Easter Sunday & Greek Easter
(718) 833-8200
7717 3rdwww.GreenHouseCafe.com
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/www.barcany.com
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